Retreat - methods for winterizing?

[lmsc07ct]

Let's say the leaves are falling, winter is coming, and your retreat home is about to spring forth from your forehead fully grown. What very basic considerations, such as surviving mass quantities of snow have you decided on as part of the basic design? What methods of security would you use to keep it secure from wayward humans, black bears, MICE, and other animals you don't want in there. How do you ensure mice don't bunk out in your water heater? How do you ensure you can show up after TSHTF and use your cabin in the dead of winter before you freeze to death getting it ready?

My long term goal is a nice place in the woods for a vacation retreat/bugout location. Being in the northeast, battling winter is an issue that will more than likely have problems that you don't think about or are never an issue with a constantly occupied house. I'd like to hear everything, from what basic roof pitches are a required minimum, to advanced robotic mice detection and removal options. I've stored food and a vehicle in a barn before, only to find out those little buggers are awake and active during the winter, destroying many months of preps.

Oh yeah, remote or semi-remote cabin, if there's two feet of snow on the ground, does your bugout vehicle have a plow, or did you figure out a way around this?

[Goldenspurholderx2]

Looking for land to do that around here myself in Colorado. Being originally from UPSTATE New York,(if you are from there you understand)and being stationed for three years in Alaska I have put some thought into this.

From Alaska I have learned the importance of a cache. Not the kind you bury underground and mark it's location but the opposite, on stilts above ground. Many homesteaders in AK would build their cache before even starting on their cabin. Some of the better ones I have seen are telephone poles sunk into the ground about 3 feet with 10-15 feet above ground and the tops capped with a 55 gal drum upside down over the poles to keep bears, mice, squirrels, etc. from climbing the poles into the cache. On top of these poles resides a small cabin, maybe as large as 8'x12', some even complete with a small wood burning stove. Inside would be food, clothing, fuel for the stove and any other items necessary for survival in the harsh climate of Alaska. This cache needs to be away from any trees that may be a "jumping off" point for squirrels or raccoons and most importantly be far enough from the main dwelling that if the main house caught fire refuge could still be found in the cache instead of freezing to death. Some remote, seasonal cabin dwellers would leave the ladder to the cache by the front door with a note saying something to the effect of:
"Due to increased vandalism we now lock our cabin up for the off season. If you are in dire need you are welcome to use our cache, all we ask is that you replace what you use when you can."
This was enough to keep the odd stranded snowmobiler or hunter from breaking into their remote cabin when they found them self in a bad way.

[Goldenspurholderx2]

Most traditional Alaska cabins will have a very strong, low pitched roof, to actually hold snow for insulation and with less peak you get a lower roof for easier heating. I'll probably use a 12, 12 pitch since I want a usable loft when I build mine. Building codes may have to be your guide.

Get a good pack basket and snow shoes. Pack baskets can hold anything from tip-ups for ice fishing to groceries and the snow shoes will never run out of gas or not start. Snow shoes are easy to use for beginners and good for walking in dense woods, unlike cross country skis. Get a good set matched for your weight plus 50 pounds, maybe some poles if you are starting out, matched with some good winter boots you can't go wrong. If you need something for more weight or bulk than the basket can handle a sled with a rope will get you by, but a sled designed to be pulled is best. There are probably cheaper out there but here is one of the best (used them in the Army).
http://www.kifaru.net/sleds.htm

[Goldenspurholderx2]

Sorry this is kinda broken up. I am planning on getting a soap stone wood stove for supplemental heating. I really want a solar water heating system for the cabin I build. It will not really use water but an antifreeze that goes through vacuum sealed heat collectors on the outside that will store heat mass in a tank inside to be distributed throughout the cabin via radiant floor heating coils in the sub floor. I would also like a heat exchanger in the storage tank for heating water with a propane on demand heater as a back up for hot water use. All the water lines would be drained while I was away for extended period of time but the solar water/house heating system with the antifreeze should be able to keep the temperature bearable inside and ensure I don't freeze while I'm getting a fire going upon arrival.

[lmsc07ct]

If the solar system could be set up to provide a constant flow of some heat you're on to something. As long as it could keep a well insulated cabin in VT just above freezing it would be a Godsend.

I like the Alaska Cache idea, to visualize it though I picture the lunar lander.

[Goldenspurholderx2]

You need some electricity for it to pump the antifreeze though the heat collectors and radiant floor system, some sensors to tell it when the heat collectors are warmer than the storage tank etc. All that shouldn't be too much draw on a photovotalic(sp?) system. From the research I have done these types of heating systems are best if left running all the time. They can't make a 20 degree difference in ambient temperature fast like a forced air system but can slowly but surely maintain a decent temperature, besides you get hot tap water out of the deal too!

edited to add: Check out these guys, they are in Vermont.
http://www.radiantcompany.com/

[Goldenspurholderx2]

Here is an example of a cache. Keep in mind this one is for a bed and breakfast and probably used more for aesthetics than it's traditional purpose.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-7/1194873/cache.jpg

[Goldenspurholderx2]

I personally would never put a plow and the related hydraulics on a bug out vehicle. You lose too much in ground clearance. Ideally I would make my entry road East-West, have pine trees on the North side, cut back the south side and lay stone on the road. Southern sun would warm the stone and the trees in conjunction with a snow fence would prevent drifting on the north side. This won't eliminate snow but hopefully it would be passable with chains on a 4wd vehicle. I'd also try to make it as straight a shot as possible and avoid sharp turns that would rob you of momentum. It's a double edged sword, the easier it is for you to get access, the easier it is for any undesirables to get access. Maybe an ATV with a blower attachment on a trailer? I'd still have snow shoes and a sled as back up.

[Dr. X]

Years ago, when I was gonna build my cabin, I went up to the Cradle of Forestry and took pictures of the Black Forest Lodge, a cabin the forestry students stayed in. I got shots of all four sides. After the pics came back I drew up a plan. 12/12 roof, 16'x 32', set on piers, loft in top, woodstove downstairs. Cost to build myself: 10 grand. Nearly twenty years later, I'm still here, and it's still not finished, but I prefer to call it a "work in progress"...

as ever,
Dr. X